TRAVEL

 

 

 

The Chronicles of Narni

Part II: Il Collicello

 

 

“In Umbria, they add work and life,

to food and wine” – Robin Leach

 

Agriturismo accommodation has been featured on the blog before. But this special place deserved a special mention. It’s name is Il Collicello.

We really like the whole concept of Agriturismo accommodation; the opportunity to stay on a working farm, to interact with people from the region and to eat food that is often produced right there, on the farm. Local, lekker. We would sooner be driving off road and bouncing along a gravel track to a big farmhouse, than negotiating new, busy streets in towns and attempting to find a place to park. And we much prefer the peace that comes with staying in country accommodation. We’ve booked town house accommodation in Italian villages and we know it is not for us; darks barking, neighbours gossiping, someone surprising you at your window, as you’re coming out of the shower, wearing no more than a towel! Agriturismo accommodation offers more space, more privacy and real contact with your hosts.

On making our reservation, I was sent clear directions to the farm. We were told not to follow online maps, as the road is impassable in places. An alternative route was provided. It was a simple turn off the main road from Narni, using a petrol station and a pizzeria as our landmark, and then the route was clearly signposted down two country roads. We didn’t get lost at all.

Il Collicello is a large country house, surrounded by the farm. On arrival we were warmly welcomed by our host, Francesca, who showed us our room and immediately asked if we needed anything. It was super hot. So she brought us cool colas to sip, in her patio garden, surrounded by multi coloured hammocks for chilling out, post dinner.

Our large room had beautiful wooden beams, a large, cast iron, four poster bed and windows that opened out to views of the rolling Umbrian hills. Perfetto.

At dinner, we sat with the family, at a long table in the garden. Everyone was socially distanced, during these strange times. Dinner was an occasion ; trays of tasty food were brought to the table; a flavourful barley salad with fresh tomatoes, delicious rustic bread with different toppings, slices of piping hot pizza, a fresh tomato and ricotta salad and tasty tempura.

We went to sleep listening to the squealing of pigs in the distance. We woke to the sound of chickens clucking and the bleating of nearby sheep.

The next morning we continued talking about the amazing dinner. Before heading out for the day, I asked Luca what he would be preparing for dinner that evening, and when he told us it would be “linguini con tartufo” (local truffle), we requested to share dinner with the family again. That evening we were treated to generous servings in two bowls, plus a platter with more, for extra helpings, and another half a truffle on a side plate, to grate on top of the pasta.

We both managed three servings of the warm, luscious linguine, coated in a perfectly seasoned sauce, and combined with lots of mouthwatering tartufo. We couldn’t stop eating! Deliziosa.

A bread basket, a plate of frittata slices, and slices of local Pecorino cheese were laid out for us too, but truly, we couldn’t eat more! Our hosts had excelled themselves. Dinner ‘al fuori’ (outside) with the family cost EUR 20 per person and was amazing. Luca is a great chef.

Agritourism, offers such a unique experience for travellers. Perhaps we will see more accomodation like this in other countries, where hosts really make you feel welcome in their homes. People to people tourism.

Both mornings we woke hungry after such handsome feasts at dinner. A buffet breakfast of cakes, croissants, fruit, nuts and yoghurts was available, with juices and a fresh pot of coffee. We were the only guests in the dining room.

Before we left we settled our bill. The total was less than expected, with some beers and liquors left off the bill. Gratis. I enquired. And Francesca echoed the same sentiment expressed by Flores Zanchi, on our first evening in Umbria. “It’s not all about the money”. It was refreshing to meet two such amiable and dynamic women, both running their own businesses, who were more concerned about providing a quality product/experience for their guests, than chasing profits.

We paid, loaded our luggage and made moves to leave. And then we stood in the car park chatting for another 20 or 30 minutes about the world and travel. Francesca was the perfect host. She extended an invitation to return for coffee, next time we are in Umbria. And finally, “arriverderci”.

If you are heading to Narni and looking for a unique place to stay with two fabulous hosts, we highly recommend a stay at Il Collicello.

Have you stayed at an Agriturismo or somewhere similar? How was your experience?

© Maggie M / Mother City Time