The Eastern and Oriental Express
“It is better to travel well than to arrive – The Buddah
During this time, while we can’t travel, many of us are remembering great journeys. It was April a few years go, that we went on our third luxury train trip, on The Eastern and Oriental Express, a journey of four days from Bangkok to Singapore.
The trip started with time in the mega city of Bangkok, with brilliant contrasts of old and new; old temples, tuk-tuks and water taxis, new hotels, fine dining and the bustling, modern inner city.
After a few days, we made our way to Bangkok’s busy Hualamphong central train station. The Italian-designed station was opened in 1916. There were people everywhere; porters with carts, street vendors, noise, chaos. We were quickly ushered into a lounge, welcomed into the cocoon of luxury travel. Our excess luggage was swapped for fancy luggage tags. After a drink, we were invited to board the train.
Before long the train pulled out of Bangkok. We stood in the spacious observation car and watched the urban jungle disappear. In time it was replaced by the rural jungle of Thailand, miles and miles of lush palm trees. Being on board a luxury train is all about the journey. The fine food was French, the plush surroundings were furnished with cherrywood panelling, Thai silks and Malaysian embroidery. The superb service was courtesy of our Thai butler.
We stopped several times during the four day journey.
The first stop was at Kanchanaburi, just 200 yards before the infamous ‘Death bridge’, the one often referred to as the Bridge over the River Kwai, from the film of the same name. We disembarked for a while, boarding a small river vessel to look at the bridge from below and listen to a historian. He told us about the prisoners of war who were forced by the Japanese to construct the bridge. They worked with South East Asian civilian labourers to build the 415 km (258 miles) Burma Railway, which runs between ban Pong, Thailand and Thanbyuzyat, Burma.
After a visit to the nearby Thailand-Burma Railway centre and the Don Rak War cemetery for the POWs, we headed back to the train. It was another one of those sobering, horrible histories that you learn about when travelling. Have you been somewhere similar?
The train continued through Thailand and by the next day we were in Malaysia for two scheduled stops. The first stop in Malaysia was at the impressive Ubudiah Mosque in Kuala Kangsar. We made our way to a cultural museum.
We continued on our journey, through Malaysia.
On our last day, we headed towards the capital city. It was nightime when we arrived at Kuala Lumpur’s colonial Moorish-style station, built in 1911. We got out, in search of a railway bar for a swift Malaysian beer, but nothing was open.
The train left Malaysia about an hour later, for the last stretch of our journey, towards Singapore.
It was a unique way to arrive in Singapore, the following morning. The Eastern & Oriental Express passes over the Causeway, built in 1923, to link Singapore island with mainland Malaya. We arrived at Singapore’s Woodlands station, our final destination.
It was a memorable luxury train journey. And we will look forward to other great train journeys.
Have you travelled on the Eastern and Oriental Express?
What’s your experience of travelling through Thailand and Malaysia?
Maggie M / Mother City Time
I remember all these train trips so well but definitely the Blue Train was the best. Who would have thought I would get to travel in such style and arrive in a beautiful city like Cape Town. Tis the stuff dreams are made of. That is what you call an arrival and also 92 Kgs of Zambia shit to lug around in the Mother city. Oh the glamour!
The Ghan was a great trip, going to Australia was an amazing trip but because we had so many family and friends there. I remember there was no service with the luggage and I had grown used to expecting it. Got off in Adelaide and then off to Barossa to try the Shiraz. Extremely good but also very expensive!
The Eastern and Oriental express was fantastic for very good service and food. Too much food. The terrain was flat mostly but it was nice to get a blast of heat in the observation car. Singapore was a great city to arrive in and meet my long, lost cousin Daniel.
All of them were amazing train trips and I can’t see how any other mode of travel can compare. Take the slow train and see everything.
Kieran, your comment was floating in the cloud but now it’s here! You re right, very little compares to SLOW train travel. Future posts on the blog will feature those other journeys. And who could forget the train from Ella – Nuwara Eliya? (and that stop in Haputale!) That’s for another post. More great train journeys beckon.