TRAVEL

Traveller’s Tales

Guest post by S. Smith

SPAIN IN A TIME OF LOCKDOWN

Resistire

I’ve been in Spain for about a year and currently live in a small rural town about an hour by bus from Madrid. At weekends it becomes a focus for cyclists and ‘Madrilenos’ (residents of Madrid ) to escape from the city. Today the sky is azur blue and punctuated not by voices and a few cars but by bird chirps and whistles and I can see clearly across to the local reservoir several kms away, which lies on the flightpath of Barajas Madrid airport.

On a normal day there is a steady stream of planes but not over the last week or so. The chem trails of high altitude aircraft have disappeared and the rich birdlife have the skies to themselves.

Towards the end of February I spent the day in Madrid, as I often do, and most people were aware of the virus but no one sensed imminent danger and rapid transmission. Manchester City were playing Real Madrid (who lost that day!) but it wasn’t especially busy. A friend remarked on the lack of customers in a cafe, in a usually bustling trendy inner city area, but I didn’t immediately equate it with the China scenario.

The International Womens’ Day march took place as planned in Madrid on March 7th, which with hindsight, was probably a mistake. It became clear in the following days that the virus was making a foothold in Europe and it felt like a slow motion dystopian dream sequence. It was only when the surgical masks or ‘mascarillos’ appeared in public that there was a sense that the virus would arrive sooner or later and that Madrid, with its high density urban area, would be the main viral hotspot.

I was out walking with friends and all of us expected a lockdown sooner rather than later. As we gathered in the busy local plaza, I think we knew it was coming. The next day it was announced that a lockdown would take place the following day, a Puerta Cerrada, in Spanish meaning ‘closed door’. Personally I can be alone but it’s a challenge for many, especially the very social countries of southern Europe. No more cheek kissing!

The reality kicked in a few days later when flashing lights heralded the arrival of an ambulance opposite. Yesterday the neighbours who have roof terraces on their houses, came out to clap, I guessed the return of someone who recovered. A few days have passed since I wrote and it feels like a tsunami of information has crashed onto my brain, which is still trying to process it all. I’m a Geographer and a data nerd, so I tend to overdose on graphs and interactive maps.

As there is so much negativity to drown in, at least the sense of humour of many has reared its funny head with inundations of clips and personal stories. Joining a fan club group pre Pandemic was the best thing I did. I recommend it if it’s moderated properly. I haven’t laughed so much in a while and I discovered my hidden zany side once more.

Daily life is straightfoward. A kilometre walk to the two supermarkets and yes the toilet rolls do go but there is plenty of food, and queues are shortish, with admirable calm. Being a non red meat eater, there are plenty of bottled beans and frozen veggies but with attendant effects on the digestive system! The locals love their dogs here and are allowed to take them out for short walks each day, with just one person.

In a moment of madness, I thought if I had one of those toy dogs with wheels on, I could walk too but I don’t think the Spanish police would be impressed.

The local storks have splendid self isolation nests up in the pines but occasionally swoop and fly freely on the thermals…if only.

© Image and text by S. Smith

(Vacaciones cafe, Madrid 26 February, 2020)