The diamond of the kitchen
“Your body is not a temple. It’s an amusement park.
Enjoy the ride.”
– Anthony Bourdain
We live to eat. We both adore good food, too much. And one of my favourite things to eat is truffle.
I think I first tried truffles in London, one of those out of a jar, not quite right kind of experiences. In a fancy food hall in Dubai, I bought overpriced, truffle oil, which was quite good. Then some years later in Rome, we were directed to a small local restaurant, away from the tourist spots, where Romans would go for a great meal. They specialised in truffle dishes. And there we tried the real thing. It was outstanding. The next night we went back for more. And five years later, on another trip to Rome, we went in search of that restaurant. We didn’t remember its name or the location. But we found our way back to the guest house we had stayed at before and re-traced our steps. And we found it.
Truffles are super special. As a vegetarian, its a delicacy that I get to enjoy. They need sun and rain to thrive. For some years they were hunted by pigs but now many farmers prefer to use dogs. And recently we had the opportunity to go hunting; truffle hunting.
We arrived at a farm, just after a small village near Teramo. Marino introduced us to Alfredo, a local guy who has had an interest in hunting truffles since he was a boy. He in turn introduced us to his nephews who would also be walking with us in the hunt. And then we were introduced to the dogs, the mamma and her two adorable 5 months old pups. All are trained truffle hunting dogs. Marino took time to explain our route and we set off. He enquired about the challenge of the walk and told us that this can be adapted for walkers who wanted something a little easier. In spite of the scorching heat, we all wanted to reach the highest point to enjoy the views of the Abruzzese countryside. And when we reached the top, the vista didn’t disappoint. Stunning Gran Sasso came into sight, surrounded by Abruzzo’s beautiful landscape, the Green Heart of Europe.
We had a couple of ‘false finds’, when the dogs sniffed out truffles that are not really fit for human consumption. At least the dogs get to enjoy them. But as we came downhill and approached shade, the dogs became excitable and the first truffle was found. The dogs sniffed and dug a bit and then our friend was passed a shovel to dig up the hidden treasure. It was huge.
We all rested in shade for a while but the dogs continued in their search, until they found another truffle and then another. Each time their excitement was infectious.
Marino took time to chat with all four of us throughout the walk and he explained about the trees and the local wildlife. Finally we found complete shade. Ombre. It was a perfect shady hideaway, where we cooled off and took a few photos.
By this point, tummies were rumbling. Lunch was on our minds. We thanked Alfredo and his nephews and said goodbye to the dogs. Marino drove us to a nearby restaurant, which specialises in truffle dishes. A few minutes later Alfredo appeared at the door, having changed into clean clothes and surprise, he was carrying the truffles found on our hunt.
Chef Enrico prepared 18 dishes for us, each equally as good as the last and almost all had truffle infused or shaved on the top. We didn’t think we could eat it all but of somehow we did! And it was all washed down with plenty of Cerasuolo wine, unique to Abruzzo, made with 100% Montepulcianno d’Abruzzo grapes. The truffle flavours and the wine paired perfectly.
There are travel days. And then there are great travel days.
It was a perfect day with friends; We walked a little and ate a lot, enjoyed the excitement of the hunt, indulged in fantastic food and made a new friend.
Perfetto!
Have you travelled especially to savour special food? Or have you been on a good food tour that you would recommend?
© Maggie M/ Mother City Time