Bush Birthday
“hope is the pillar of the world”
– Kanuri of Nigeria and Niger
We just got back from the bush; Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia. Three countries, nine border crossings and one bush birthday.
We flew into Zimbabwe, as there are now direct flights from the Mother City, just two hours from Cape Town. We stayed overnight in Victoria Falls, welcoming the chance to revisit the mighty, cascading waterfall. It’s always a bit nostalgic for us to go back to that unique border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, watching the spray from the spectacular Victoria Falls.
The first time that we visited Zimbabwe was in 2001, September 11 th to be precise. The attacks in USA happened while we were airborne. We heard the news when we landed in Harare. Most people remember where they were on that day.
I had been flown over by the NGO that we were working for. I had to have a mammogram, a medical exam not offered in Zambia at that time. Back then, when we lived in Zambia, we would cross over with our Kawacha and people would laugh at us. Harare was a sophisticated and organised capital city. The country had been prosperous, the ‘breadbasket of Southern Africa’.
Much has changed for the country since then.
On this trip, we were met at the new, modern airport by a driver, Boston. We turned out of the airport road into a wide avenue of acacia and baobab trees. We watched warthogs by the roadside, felt the fierce sun on our skin and gazed at the red earth of Southern Africa. We felt happy.
But our initial excitement at being back in Zimbabwe was quickly erased. The conversation rapidly turned to politics.
Boston told us about the panic buying that had been going on for some weeks. It seems that even those who earn a salary are struggling to buy basic items in the supermarkets. He told us how shelves are bare and some shops are shutting down. The situation is desperate. But there was talk about an announcement from parliament, acknowledging these challenges and announcing some solutions. There is hope.
The plight of this country, 38 years after its independence, lies firmly at the foot of one man, Mugabe. He didn’t uplift the majority of people here. He brought them to their knees.
I chatted to the genial kitchen staff at our lodge. They too spoke of the food and fuel shortages but smiled, in spite of it all. I gave away the ’emergency’ food items I had carried; hot chocolate, popcorn and cup-a-soups. If you are travelling to Zimbabwe soon, consider carrying some non perishables that you can give to those who you meet. It will be gratefully received. It might add a kilo to your checked in luggage but it’s probably more useful than your tip at the moment.
This was supposed to be my ‘birthday jolly’. And yet at the time of writing this, I’m deeply sad. Familiar feelings flooded back.
But things can change. We saw progress quickly in Zambia under President Mwanawasa who identified priorities: Ensure that everyone has access to education, provide training for those who need it, address crime and corruption.
I don’t mean for things to sound simplistic, It’s not. There are many complex issues at play. These are local problems. The leaders must find local solutions. The people of Zimbabwe now pin their hopes on their new president, Emmerson Mnangagwa.
After our overnight stay in Victoria Falls, we headed towards Botswana. The wide road from this part of Zimbabwe is an animal corridor, with the Zambezi National Park to one side, Canghdadondo park on the other. We exited Zimbabwe at Kazangula, entered Botswana, then exited again at Kasane.
We switched to a small boat and crossed the Chobe river to the Namibian entry point on the other side. There we docked, had to follow a sandy path for a while, then turn left after a baobab tree. In this unlikely place, we found the immigration office.
It all took time, a long story. But we had learned how to wait when we lived in the region. It takes as long as it takes.
All the while I was looking forward to us being at the camp, a river lodge. I longed to be by nature, with a view of the river and a sundowner in hand. And that night it didn’t disappoint; the hot flames of the campfire, bush fayre and abundant night sounds. We slept well.
Along this stretch of the Chobe River, we were surrounded by bountiful birdlife. We watched menacing crocodiles and graceful giraffes. We drifted up to the riverbank alongside huge herds of elephants, un-phased by the tiny river vessel. When we first visited Chobe NP over 16 years ago, the elephant population was around 35,000. The problem of poaching was addressed. Now there are over 120,000 elephants in Chobe, a conservation success story.
I woke up on my birthday on the Caprivi Strip in Namibia. I could not imagine a better place to be. As we drifted on the Chobe River, I would watch impala and buffalo drinking by the riverbank. I sipped a cool glass of bubbly. I couldn’t wish for more.
We left our houseboat, travelled by boat out of Namibia and then climbed up into in a 4×4 that took us back through Botswana. After travelling through border posts, at Impala Island, Kasane and Kazangula, we returned to Zimbabwe.
Our Zimbabwean driver met us at the border and we talked during the journey. I asked him about the much anticipated announcement from parliament. He told me it hadn’t come yet.
More waiting. More hoping.
We reached our hotel and enjoyed more birthday fizz. We spruced ourselves up and made our way to the Victoria Falls Hotel for its infamous afternoon tea. In the top tier of our tea stand, the staff had arranged our cake, with one lone candle.
Beautiful voices surrounded me and sung happy birthday.
And in that moment, as I watched the candle flickering, my thoughts turned to our driver, Boston. My birthday wish was clear to me. I don’t need a thing. My wish this year is for the beautiful people of Zimbabwe.
May things get better. Soon. I wish them a brighter future.
Have you travelled to a place that made you feel the same way?
© Maggie M / Mother City Time