San Marino
“Although your dominion is small, nevertheless your State is one of
the most honoured throughout history” – Abraham Lincoln
San Marino is a small country, an independent republic, nestled within Bella Italia. The country is about 60 square kilometers in size, one of the smallest republics in the world but also one of the wealthiest.
I could tell you all about this old, sovereign state, founded in the fourth century AD. I could describe its many Medieval features, its impressive stone walls and the defensive fortresses dating back to the Middle Ages. San Marino’s historic centre and its ancient towers are both UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
But apart from the defensive walls, watchtowers and amazing views at every turn, we left with some other special memories.
On our last day in San Marino, we sought respite from the noise and chaos surrounding some large groups of students on school trips.
We made a beeline for the contemporary gallery and took time to look at some Sammarinese art. We were the only people there.
There we met Rita Canarezza, an artist and the co-founder of Little Constellation, an international contemporary art network that connects small European states.
She stopped what she was doing to greet us and we began to talk about art, film and the Biennale in Venice. We walked back into the gallery space together and Rita took time to share some of the thinking behind a couple of works by Sammarinese artists.
We returned to the library space where Rita showed us the front cover of a book, with a photograph of artist Maurizio Cattelan’s signature painted in a railway tunnel (1991).
Rita listened with interest as we told her about our work in international education, leaving the rat race and building a different life.
She got it instantly. “Libero”
After a long and lively conversation, we left with “un regalo per te” (a book of local artwork), a small challenge and a huge hug.
What a wonderful woman.
That evening, fuelled with interest and enthusiasm after meeting Rita, we went off in search of some ‘secret’ art work.
We walked away from the town until we found the old, dis-used train tunnel that Rita has told us about. We entered the tunnel, unsure of where we were going and how far we should walk along the old train-tracks.
There was no information. No admission fee. Again, it was just us two.
We moved further and further into the tunnel, treading carefully across the large stones and wooden sleepers. Silliness set in and we called out to each other, creating echoing sounds. But further into the tunnel, as the temperature dropped, we immediately remembered the refugees who had hid in the tunnel and their struggle.
The San Marino railways had been paid for by Mussolini’s facist government. It was damaged by the English bombing in June 1944. During WWII, Italians arrived in search of safety. The railway tunnels were used to provide shelter to over 100,000 Italians who asked for refuge.
Now, years later, many flee from other countries in search of safety and a better life in Italy. The struggle for those seeking asylum remains the same.
We found Maurizio Cattelan’s faded signature on the tunnel wall.
We spent two evenings with Allesandro and his family at a local enoteca. On both nights we were the only people there. That gave us the opportunity to chat and to learn about the local wines being produced. On our second visit Allesandro introduced us to his wife and son. Another board of cheeses and cold cuts arrived and we selected a bottle of locally produced Brugneto to sample.
Allesandro’s son, Nico went on to tell us a little about their life; about his Italian parents who had moved to San Marino about two decades ago, where he was born. He told us about his identity, about being Sammarinese, and the differences with Italy. Nico plays the piano professionally, performing in concertos all over Europe. We spoke of travel and other places.
Allesandro and his family made us so welcome. The wine and conversation flowed.
And isn’t this why we travel?
To interact.
To hear about something different.
To experience something authentic.
We were pleased that we made a plan to spend three nights in San Marino. It’s a beautiful country.
Sure, we skipped the souvenirs in the tourist shops. But we left with special memories of meeting a few local people, who shared with us some of the history of the place, as well as their time.
No souvenirs required.
Maggie M / Mother City Time