Franschhoek
Wine is a passport to the world
– Thom Elkjer
The annual Franschhoek Bastille Festival happened last weekend. At many places in this unique town, locals and visitors joined in the revelry, waiters and shop assistants wore berets and celebrations continued.
It’s an interesting history, here in this part of South Africa’s Western Cape.
The Huguenots were Protestants from France and Southern Netherlands. They followed the teaching of a theologian called John Calvin. During the 17th century, many fled from France to escape persecution, seeking refuge in other countries. Others took refuge in the Dutch Republic, and some were recruited by the Dutch East India Company to strengthen the maritime station at the Cape of Good Hope.
The area of Franschhoek was founded by French Huguenots in 1688, and there are many nods to its French heritage.
We first came here over 20 years ago, on a road trip with my parents. PKP and I didn’t know where anything was. But we worked out a route and took care of my folks. It was a really special part of the Western Cape to bring them to, just ahead of our first Cape Christmas together.
And they took care of us too. Back then, as NGO workers we earned a local allowance, paid in Zambian Kwacha. That wasn’t going to go very far. My parents checked us all into an elegant, country house hotel. It felt pretty fancy to us back then. The boutique hotel was surrounded by vineyards and majestic mountains.
My mother retreated to her luxurious room and comfy bed. We stayed up in the hotel’s award winning restaurant. I can remember us talking with my father, my dad in his element, feasting on local lamb, washed down by plenty of fine Pinotage.
It’s been interesting to return now. There was a mist and a mild winter atmosphere. Winter in these winelands is a perfect time to try some new red wines without the summer crowds.
Our trip began back at the country house hotel. Not much had changed, it was instantly recognisable and happy memories came flooding back. We enjoyed good winter fare paired with wines from Franschhoek.
We stayed closer to the main town at a beautifully restored guest house. We took time to wander in Franschhoek, admiring the artisinal chocolate, coffee and specialist artwork on display.
But of course we came for the wine.
There were many. But these were some highlights…
Our brunch at Rickety Brunch, in Paulina’s restaurant, was a great opportunity to try their wines with food:
- Buffalo Mozzerella salad, balsamic pearls, fresh tomatoes, basil pesto and fresh greens with Foundation Stone Rose
- Poke bowl of black rice, edename beans, cucumber, fried tofu, broccoli, avocado and tahini with Rickety Bridge Chenin Blanc
- Vegan curry; lentils, chick peas, coconut, roti and sambas with Foundation Stone White.
All three small plates were perfectly paired with the wines.
Our next stop was at La Motte, a gorgeous wine estate.
We tried their champagne style wine, (MCC) Method Cap Classique before moving on to sample a few reds.
The Pierneef Syrah Viognier was very special. And there was a sense of occasion getting the opportunity to try the impressive Hanneli R (2017), which is no longer being produced.
On our way out of Franschhoek we made a stop at Boschendal estate.
Luxury travel brand CV Villas released a report earlier this year, on the most popular wine regions and vineyards. Boschendal was rated as the ‘Most Beautiful Vineyard in the World’.
We could have stayed for longer. The farm shop was full of fairly priced, fresh produce. The restaurant was inviting. And then there’s the wine. We know we’ll be back.
We left with treats for the journey home; bread, pies and caramel popcorn, as well as fond memories of Franschoek.
Have you visited a wine region that you would recommend to other travellers?
©Maggie M /Mother City Time