We just got back from Italy.

For a long time we have opted to move away from staying at chain hotels whenever possible.

We are not very interested in the loyalty miles and phoney corporate smiles.

The agriturismo scene in Italy gives you the chance to stay in authentic country houses and working farms. You get to try some local food. And things are generally a little slower!

We tested this out for this first time on Italy’s Adriatic coast line, just outside the small town of Pineto.

The online booking presented attractive old farmhouse architecture.

We arrived after our journey and received a warm welcome from the farm’s four legged friend. The human host could learn a lesson or two from his dog. He reminded me of J.K Simmons character from the film Whiplash, just as surly and every bit as terse. He gave the impression that our being there was all a bit of an inconvenience. Maybe that was supposed to be part of the character of the place.

He checked us in. We watched while he typed our passport details with one finger. We were in no rush.

We were shown to our room which was exactly as expected; old wooden beams, vintage prints and a little balcony, which all fitted snugly around a comfy double bed. Old world charm.

The restaurant was not open for dinner, so we headed into Pineto, made a point of avoiding all the cafes by the many beach resorts, and made a beeline for a local pizza joint in the Centro. There we took a number, like being at an old supermarket cheese counter, and waited for our number to be called. We ordered pizza diavola and pizza zucchini which was served piping hot on paper plates, with crispy crusts and change from EUR 3. Perfecto!

Back at the farm house, cicadas did their night calling and cicads danced in the cool evening breeze.

The next morning we woke hungry and headed down for breakfast. We had high hopes but left a little disappointed; UHT carton juice, chunks of cake and a few local biscuits which vaguley resembled Celli Ripieni, traditional Jam-Filled Cookies from Abruzzo. All of this was accompanied by a 1980s Lisa Stanfield soundtrack to set the tone!

We paid and made moves to leave. As we went, I had noticed many Vasco CDs in the reception area and when I mentioned the artist’s name, our host finally managed a smile. He is clearly a fan.

Overall, we felt that the accomodation was slightly overpriced for what you got, especially the very processed food at breakfast. We have received warmer welcomes and better food for less.

But we were introduced to the agriturismo scene and this has piqued our interest. It’s a different way to travel, one that affords some insight into the traditional architecture, slow life in rural Italy and the local culture.

Have you stayed somewhere similar? How was the experience?