Roma
Sī fuerīs Rōmae, Rōmānō vīvitō mōre; sī fuerīs alibī, vīvitō sīcut ibī – Saint Ambrose
We just got back from Rome
There is always something special about re-visiting the beautiful Eternal City and it makes me a little nostalgic. I inevitably recall that first visit, 30 years ago and how I saw Rome then, through 20-something eyes.
Excitement about everything was all consuming; the food, the ancient everything and the attention of young, charming Roman men!
The tourist ‘kak’ was everywhere then as now: postcards, fridge magnets and reproductions of Michaelangelo’s David. And yet it was all so enchanting.
You think back and realise that you were so easily pleased and never easily irritated as a young traveller.
Were we really that easy going?
Of course places change. Rome is far busier now than it was then. Tourists will bump into you while staring into a google map, rather than looking where they’re going. Culinary ‘experiences’ are sold to many via an app.
And we change as well. 30+ years later I don’t enjoy the crowds so much. I’d still rather meander in a place with no particular destination in mind. And we’re content to take time to seek out where the local people are.
On this recent trip to Roma, we rode a local bus from Termini to the end of the line, as far away from ‘touristy’ Rome as possible. We disembarked at the last bus stop, Clodia.
We found the ‘B no B’ that we had booked, an unpretentious apartment on the second floor, split into 5 en-suite rooms. From our balcony we watched students and residents passing by.
I spotted a regular cafe on the street corner. There we were welcomed by the woman and her husband running the cafe. It became our daily breakfast stop, for a cappuccino e cornetto priced for locals. On the weekend, their teenage son was helping out.
A far cry from the tacky, tourist menus that you typically find in central Rome, you know the ones, laminated with photos, and printed in multiple languages, their ‘Menu del giorno’ of salad and pasta was detailed on a chalk board. Price EUR 8.00
I got to feast on delicious Cacio e Pepe, made by the nonna in the kitchen.
There was a big football match at Stadio Olympico on the Sunday. The roads were cordoned off by Caribeniere and a few hours before the match everything was blissfully quiet! And so we wandered with lunch on our minds, through sleepy, residential streets. Very little was open.
We stumbled upon a contemporary eatery with very little seating and very many people, all Roma football fans grabbing a bite before heading to the stadium. Rome were playing Cagliari that afternoon and fans were adorned with kit, hats and scarves.
We approached the counter and were warmly welcomed by the owner. We ordered Suppli and Pinse. Five items arrived on a black, slate platter and everything was hot, fresh and delicious.
I went to say thank you and pay. Lunch cost us 10 EUR, total. And the owner waved me a kiss goodbye!
The final score that afternoon was a win for the Roman side 1-0. And it was a win for us too. I will remember being surrounded by the Roma fans, Signore and his fantastic street food.
In a big, busy city like Rome, which is so firmly on the tourist path, is it still possible to find a great vibe and an authentic slice of Roman life?
The answer – When in Rome, do as the Romans do.