Traveller’s Tales
Bedouins, caves and Nabatean paintings
Guest post by Pádraig Downey
The words of ones elders are greater than an amulet
– Akan of Ghana
So for the past 3 days, I have been having one of the most incredible experiences in Petra staying with the Bedouins (who live in the Petra caves). I was fortunate to meet a Bedouin named Tarek* in a Shisha cafe one evening. There were no seats left except one beside me (due to a crowd of loud tourists). Tarek asked to sit beside me and from there we chatted and chatted and continued to chat for days without stop.
From the cafe, he invited me to his cave where I remained (as well as sleeping in the cave and the desert with the lights of Palestine/Israel in the distance). Tarek taught me about his world, his people and the REAL Petra. He is one of the kindest, wisest and most sincere people I have ever met and I am in awe at his dignity and grace. He has a respect and relationship with the land I have never seen before.
Apart from exploring the caves amidst the splendour of Petra, he taught me about the history of his ancestors, the Nabatean people, through picking up ceramic pieces of pottery as well as Roman and Nabatean coins (left them back as I have no claim to them). He also brought me to caves with original Nabatean paintings and drawings, as well as teaching me about their irrigation systems and channels. We looked at the ancient graves, as well as visiting other caves to see his family and friends. Everyone welcomed me with open arms . There is no running water or electricity there, just candlelight. But they use olive oil and different plants to stay fresh and clean. There is also a Bedouin village where they have access to water – a plan to “settle” them and house them, but the people belong in the caves and feel “home” there. When I stated that I had to return to the real world, he reminded me that Petra and being in nature IS the REAL world. How true. How we have lost our way in many respects. Tarek’s spirit and love for life are unmatched. He is learned and wise beyond words. He is a friend and brother for life.
by Pádraig Downey
What’s your experience of visiting Petra?
*name changed for privacy